Worms, Germany
Dolph's Letter #81
Dear Sweetheart-
New policy has come into effect which allows us to state where we are.
Yesterday afternoon I was fortunate enough to go on a tour of this city - Worms. It was conducted by the historian of Worms + translated by some middle-aged woman who was a school teacher. It was very interesting + informative, the highlights of which were the Worms Cathedral - undamaged on the inside, + the Luther Memorial - unscathed.
Worms apparently is a city of noteworthy history having been inhabited as evidenced by discoveries for at least 5000 years. It was a great trade center, situated on the Rhine, below Mainz, between western Europe + the Byzantine, especially during the medieval ages as kings, emperors + princes of the church resided there. The original cathedral - eastern portion - was begun in the year 1000 + completed in 1100 - it is intact + only undemolished save for some of the paintings or rather murals. In a baroque style the cupola is about 40 feet high + as one faces the eastern apse the beauty + grandeur is deeply felt. The eastern apse was for the Spiritual Leaders + in 110c the western apse was constructed - identical in proportions for the temporal leaders - noblemen + kings. It is much plainer + much colder than the eastern portion due to not only the lack of rich ornamentation + the absence of murals + statues, but, because it had to be torn down + rebuilt, with the original stones (where safe) after the sack of Worms in 1689 by the French, which, incidentally destroyed practically all of the city. It was in the western portion where the emperor sat + the castle of the emperor was had a wing immediately adjacent to the Cathedral, + by means of a hidden staircase + room, with a window, the Princes + princesses might observe services without actually participating. The castle is no more + the window is filled with brick + the outline of which can be readily perceived, though. Along the walls are numerous plaques containing, not the names of the war dead, but statues depicting of various scenes in the life of Christ. There is a magnificent one of Mary atop the tree of life. Also unforgettable are the statues of Peter (with the key which is the coat of arms of Worms + recurrent throughout all its architecture) + Paul above the throne in the eastern apse (I wish I were more familiar with church terminology). Magnificent. We were rushed (because a service was to be conducted - wish I could have stayed, but we
later And so we passed to the outside + looked at the portals - one (on the south side I believe) for the princes of the church, + the other (on the north side) for the princes of the land. Statues were numerous + moralizing. Then we viewed the cathedral from various aspects the more to enjoy its beauty.
[A rude sketch of the cathedral profile]
'Rude' a joke. Sorry I haven't a postcard of it, maybe you can find one.
We had seen a model of the church + the various other bldgs which are adjuncts of a Cathedral - they do not exist - 1689 sack + the ravages of time, the erection of commercial bldgs (old market place + the new) + the attacks of 21 Feb 1945 + 18 March 45 which made Worms Kaputt + evidently will go down in the history of the city. In the courtyard, though, I viewed a statue of a lion which was made in the year 900. Of course the Nazis erected a wall enclosure around that which must have been a garden approaching the western apse (am I spelling it correctly) + paved it not forgetting to put up a swastika over the gateway which was a remain of the original wall about Worms. This wall encircled the original Worms + had a deep + wide moat (about 700 yds) + there was also an outer wall + its moat. A truly medieval setup which time has altered + very little remains.
So we continued on our tour which was all in the vicinity of the Cathedral + saw the wreckage of 2 other churches, which were demolished by us, which were important to the Restoration movement - Worms being the city in which Luther nailed his protests on the door of its Cathedral. These other churches were shells - gutted.
And then we came to the monument of Luther erected in 1868 with monies from all over the world, including the U.S. The postal card, which I enclose, can't begin to give you an idea of the magnificence of this monument. Unscathed - it stands amid rubble. The central figure is Luther - in the attitude he is supposed to have taken when he issued his edicts, his protests + said "I have made my stand, I cannot go back from here. The two standing in the rear, are two the lay leaders (I believe) Reuchlin + Melanchthon - I do not know their significance. The two standing in front are 2 princes of the land who supported Luther Frederick the Wise (a crown at his feet) + Philip de Grunninge. The three seated women represent the 3 cities which were spiritual centers of Protestantism - Augsburg, Speyer + Magdeburg. Seated around the statue of Luther are some of the great religious leaders of the reformation Savonarola, left front, Hus, right front, Walden + Wiklef, not visible in postal card) the English leader of Reformation. The monument was beautiful + inspiring. Really something.
That concludes my tour of Worms, + it would have been ever so much more inspiring if you + I had taken it. Oh my dear I turned frequently during the tour as to ask you how you are enjoying it, + wasn't this beautiful + that, but you weren't there, physically. I miss you so very much Sweetheart.
Please take good care of yourself.
A boyhood friend of mine Ed Bajda came in today. We have done a lot of reminiscing
Your devoted husband,
Dolph-
